Corset boning

So, I had a brief debate with a friend today about corsets. He remembered being told that you could make a real corset with plastic boning, and I disagreed, based on my understanding of things.

I've just gone looking for clarification on the int0rn37, and found the following.

From http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/fabrics.htm :

Boning: We almost always use 1/2" capped and coated steel boning in our bodices.We have found this to be the most supierior boning for stability, shape and support. We cut it to length, and cap it to prevent it from poking through the fabric and impaling you. We *love* this stuff. However, we totally understand that some people *truly dislike* steel boning, so if you ask us, we'll use something else. We will not make unboned bodices, so please don't ask. An unboned bodice is a very unattractive bodice, and will bunch up horribly. However, if you really disike steel, we also have the following types of boning:

****1/4" steel - we use it sometimes, and we like it. It's coated to prevent rusting (just like the 1/2" stuff) and we cap it too (again, just like the 1/2" stuff), to prevent it from impaling your delicate skin.

****Rigilene: Not recommended for bodice support, but it does have it's uses. It's flexible and is a very light boning, provides little support, but it'll hold a shape better than nothing. Unless it is specifically requested, we only use Rigilene for one thing: tightly curved lacing points. If you have a customized bodice you want made with a lacing on the curve, Rigilene works prefectly for this. It has great flexibility for curved points and can be sewn directly to the fabric. It's plastic, cut to length, shaped curved tips and capped to prevent it from poking through the fabric.

****French boning: Almost as stiff as steel, but with a bit more flexibility. This boning is most similar to baleen (whalebone) This is a very sturdy boning, and a great alternative for those who really dislike steel. If you don't want steel, we recommend that you go with French boning. We cut it to length, and curve the ends to prevent it from poking through the fibers.

****Spiral Steel: Spiral was not commonly used until the Victorian era, and it is much more flexible than 1/2" steel boning - In our opinion, it's too flexible for any clothing pre-Victorian - it's comparable to the flexibilty of Rigilene, only made with sturdier steel. We prefer the stiffness and support that coated 1/2" steel provides and we'll try to talk you into using regular steel boning - but if you insist, we'll use the spiral. We cut it to length, and cap it.

****Busks - we love them. They're fabulously historically accurate for Elizabethan costuming, and we can custom design bodices and corsets around a spoon busk for you - and we can even do some fancy wood burned designs on them - but the cost is a bit higher. (If you've heard of spoon busks though, you'll understand and expect a higher cost anyway.)

The following two links seem to support my assertions about corsets needing steel boning
http://www.corsetmaking.com/CMSpages/CMSboneinfo.html
http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/Pages/DraftRigilene.htm

And this seems to support his assertions that plastic can work just as well. Particularly, this german boning they speak of may actually be as strong as metal.
http://www.fabrics.net/boning.asp

Upon reading all this, my conclusion is this:
There are many different types of corsets, and boning.
Historically, whalebone, and then spiral steel were used.

Nowadays, if you want a corset that emulates those from Elizabethan era or thereabouts, you could use some of the stronger plastic boning, and it would do the trick. This would still be a "real corset" even though it is not the shape I think of when I think "corset."

However, if you want to do waist training, or the severe "suck in" Victorian era kinda corset that I think of when I hear the word "corset," you will probably need steel boning, because it IS stronger than the strongest plastic (except perhaps that German stuff).

Seamstresses and corset afficionados, what say you?

pixelation

Well, my dresser is now painted a lovely slate blue and ready for the next stage in my evil home renovation plans: the découpage. Problem is I have to find a picture first, and that is proving more challenging than I had expected.

The surface to be decoupaged is 30" x 45"

To have photo-realistic resolution, that would require an original photo with resolution on the order of 7200 pixels x 10,800 pixels (that's to get 240 ppi, without ressing up using digital image processing software)

I'm not sure I need photo realistic resolution, but either way, it doesn't look like I'm going to get it. The largest resolution I'm seeing on Google Image Search is about 2000 by 3000, or 1500 by 2000. Those are pretty rare. More likely to be what I'm dealing with is 1200 x 1600.

The highest of 2000 x 3000 would give me a res of about 67 ppi, which might work out okay, maybe.

The 1200 x 1600, once I had cropped it to 1120 x 1600 would be more like 37 ppi.

My 5 MP camera, according to what I've read, can produce images of 2592 x 1944 pixels. That would give me, once cropped to the right dimensions, 2592 x 1728, or 57.6 ppi, which MIGHT be enough. But, cherry blossoms won't be in bloom at the RBG until May.

Of course, I haven't yet looked into getting an actual photo and scanning it at a copy shop on a high-res scanner, or just photocopying and blowing it up right off the bat. I have no idea what kind of scanning resolution I could get at a Kinkos type shop, though.

I gotta say, I sure am learning a lot from this!

All this ppi stuff is rather frustrating/confusing, nonetheless. Rarr! It should do what I tell it to!