Corset boning

[danaeris]

So, I had a brief debate with a friend today about corsets. He remembered being told that you could make a real corset with plastic boning, and I disagreed, based on my understanding of things.

I've just gone looking for clarification on the int0rn37, and found the following.

From http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/fabrics.htm :

Boning: We almost always use 1/2" capped and coated steel boning in our bodices.We have found this to be the most supierior boning for stability, shape and support. We cut it to length, and cap it to prevent it from poking through the fabric and impaling you. We *love* this stuff. However, we totally understand that some people *truly dislike* steel boning, so if you ask us, we'll use something else. We will not make unboned bodices, so please don't ask. An unboned bodice is a very unattractive bodice, and will bunch up horribly. However, if you really disike steel, we also have the following types of boning:

****1/4" steel - we use it sometimes, and we like it. It's coated to prevent rusting (just like the 1/2" stuff) and we cap it too (again, just like the 1/2" stuff), to prevent it from impaling your delicate skin.

****Rigilene: Not recommended for bodice support, but it does have it's uses. It's flexible and is a very light boning, provides little support, but it'll hold a shape better than nothing. Unless it is specifically requested, we only use Rigilene for one thing: tightly curved lacing points. If you have a customized bodice you want made with a lacing on the curve, Rigilene works prefectly for this. It has great flexibility for curved points and can be sewn directly to the fabric. It's plastic, cut to length, shaped curved tips and capped to prevent it from poking through the fabric.

****French boning: Almost as stiff as steel, but with a bit more flexibility. This boning is most similar to baleen (whalebone) This is a very sturdy boning, and a great alternative for those who really dislike steel. If you don't want steel, we recommend that you go with French boning. We cut it to length, and curve the ends to prevent it from poking through the fibers.

****Spiral Steel: Spiral was not commonly used until the Victorian era, and it is much more flexible than 1/2" steel boning - In our opinion, it's too flexible for any clothing pre-Victorian - it's comparable to the flexibilty of Rigilene, only made with sturdier steel. We prefer the stiffness and support that coated 1/2" steel provides and we'll try to talk you into using regular steel boning - but if you insist, we'll use the spiral. We cut it to length, and cap it.

****Busks - we love them. They're fabulously historically accurate for Elizabethan costuming, and we can custom design bodices and corsets around a spoon busk for you - and we can even do some fancy wood burned designs on them - but the cost is a bit higher. (If you've heard of spoon busks though, you'll understand and expect a higher cost anyway.)

The following two links seem to support my assertions about corsets needing steel boning
http://www.corsetmaking.com/CMSpages/CMSboneinfo.html
http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/Pages/DraftRigilene.htm

And this seems to support his assertions that plastic can work just as well. Particularly, this german boning they speak of may actually be as strong as metal.
http://www.fabrics.net/boning.asp

Upon reading all this, my conclusion is this:
There are many different types of corsets, and boning.
Historically, whalebone, and then spiral steel were used.

Nowadays, if you want a corset that emulates those from Elizabethan era or thereabouts, you could use some of the stronger plastic boning, and it would do the trick. This would still be a "real corset" even though it is not the shape I think of when I think "corset."

However, if you want to do waist training, or the severe "suck in" Victorian era kinda corset that I think of when I hear the word "corset," you will probably need steel boning, because it IS stronger than the strongest plastic (except perhaps that German stuff).

Seamstresses and corset afficionados, what say you?

Comments

[divineseduction.livejournal.com]

I would definitely not use plastic boning for Elizabethan corsetry. Because of the silhouette desired, basically flat front (regardless of the real size of one's breasts), I can't think how the plastic would actually work, without bending. I mean, I suppose, if you're flatchested to begin with, and somehow have the correct silhouette, it might work, but then it wouldn't be a corset. It would just be a tight, strapless top. Or something.

Here. http://costume.dm.net/effigy.htm

Also, lots of other gooood info on that site.

Now, I eat potstickers.

From an engineering perspective.

[earthdragon.livejournal.com]

I don't know corsets, but I know basic materials from being a mechanical engineer.

What do you mean by strength?

I suspect the main thing you are interested in is stiffness. Steel is significantly stiffer then any plastic. Stiffness also increases with the thickness of the part being bent, so plastic boning will be either much less stiff, or much thicker then similar steel boning.

Steel also has a high yield strength, which means that it will take more force to bend it to the point it will permenently deform then an identical plastic form (however again, making the plastic thicker will help solve this problem).

Steel is also good for repeated bending (does not fatigue), and will not worry about any tempreture the garment is likely to encounter. (At higher tempretures plastics may melt or soften, but this should still not be an issue for any temp. range you are likely to encounter if the people who made the plastic boning did not do anything really stupid).

I suspect that carbon fiber, or composits could make good corset boning, although they are a bit more brittle then steel or plastic (and would snap instead of bend if overloaded ).

Of course, none of that actaully says if the current non-metal products are suitable for and particular corset use.

[thebitterguy]

I just want to say the title of this post was incredibly misleading.

[angrykat.livejournal.com]

DO NOT USE PLASTIC BONING